There is a certain kind of charm to nondescript-looking bakeries in Mumbai. The limestone-chuna-coated walls are usually crumbling, the floors are either solid uneven stone or have chipped mosaic tiles, and the overall appearance is shabby. But the moment you catch the wafting smell of mawa cakes and buttery biscuits, the spartan ambience is a nonissue. Nazneen Bakery is one such spot; tucked into the ground level of 113 year-old Shanti Niwas in Mumbai’s Seven Bungalows area, the bakery is a landmark location for most local residents.
The bakery gets its name from Nazneen Irani, who is the bungalow’s now septuagenarian owner Perin Irani’s daughter. As old as the bungalow itself, the bakery was owned by the Irani family and then sublet to Srichand Peswani, a Sindhi businessman in 1974. Peswani’s sons Manoj and Gansham now run the bakery that distributes its products to over 40 other stores across the city. The roughly 500 sq feet space is divided into a small square cash counter, a display room lined with colourful tutti frutti biscuits and golden cakes, and a spacious room where all the products are packaged by hand. The smell of freshly baked goods was even more intense when it was all made in this small space, but as demand increased, the making had to be shifted to a proper kitchen space elsewhere.
Most patrons make their way to the bakery post their morning and evening walks at the Nana-Nani Park, which is right opposite to Shanti Niwas. Owners Ghansham and Manoj have fond memories of seeing the original seven bungalows which once flanked the bakery on all sides. “There was a dead end here and no buildings, only bungalows, the original seven bungalows of the time,” says Gansham.
The bakery has stood the test of time as Shanti Niwas is one of the last original bungalows to have survived the onslaught of real estate greed. Although the bungalow is in a state of disrepair and abandon as Irani doesn’t live there anymore, Nazneen bakery continues to thrive.
Exact Location: Nazneen Bakery, 7 Bugalows Road, Versova, Opposite Nana-Nani Park
Must Try: The crumbling goodness of their Coconut Baath Cake.
Other Bestsellers: Nankhatai and Eggless Cakes
Pet Friendly: Yes! Happy doggy Oreo is usually curled up behind the cash counter.
Wow! An interesting insight into the nearly-lost treasures of this city. Looking forward to learning about more such gems through your page. Keep it up 🙂
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Perin Irani is my aunty n I have fond memories of Shanti Niwas where my Mom used to take us when we were children to visit our grandparents as well as my cousins…Dilshad, Nazneen and Farhang. We would gather almond nuts and eat the soft red flesh of the nut…n run up the stairs to break the nut. We would be running in the compond gathering drumsticks sz they eere felled from the trees…This article has revived my childhood memories…thank you Natasha
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Got me nostalgic
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Yes, true, as you put it the last original Bungalow to survive the onslaught of the real estate greed. The could be the last original coconut bath cake Nankhatai etc. to survive the onslaught of fast food.
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Beautifully written my darling daughter. So very happy to read your first blog. Your style is so authentic. I think you are the best version of yourself you could be. Kudos to you my gorgeous.
Yes your blog brought fond memories of years gone by. Good to see the place still standing despite its run down and dilapidated condition. I bet the biscuits still taste the same.
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A novel-in-progress – I am an Los Angeles writer working on a novel set in Versova in one of the Seven Bungalows. Magical realism on many levels. I loved this article about Naseem Bakery. My characters live in “a” bakery. This is a wonderful piece that has given me some pictures in my mind – much needed as I write.
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And still in progress, but this is the location where the main family lives. I love the photo you posted.
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How did I lose track of this wonderful blog. ANd why. have I dawdled on my own only in Bombay book. It is all written inmy head. I suspect your blog will inspire me to finidh the story. Stay well. And thank you.
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So well written, Natasha. And a wonderful motivation to try it out when I am in Mumbai.
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Nicely written, Natasha…such a beautiful piece and ode to the bygone days of Mumbai. The corner bakeries and restaurants owned by “crazy bawas” who waited for the roof to collapse before any repair or renovation!
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I willbe following you. If Iget this novelfinished I would be happy to name you as a participant or ins[iration or in the dedication. Is this something you wuold agree to being?
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I would love to know more about the book you are working on. Three generations of my family have lived in 7 bungalows, its history is close to my heart. Let’s connect over email?
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I am the Naaznin of the Nazneen Bakery.
Though second daughter, my Paternal Grandfather named the Bakery after Me. And a building in Sewri.
A wooden bungalow now at the end of An Era.
Shook when trucks passed by, but now trembles even in the sea breeze.
It rains inside as much as it rains outside.
Will live forever in our memories
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